Can you run a ground wire from stove directly to ground pole in the ground [duplicate]Can I use a ground rod as an equipment ground for a detached garage?Could a disconnected ground wire in the breaker box have caused any problems?Why would the documentation say to wire a pole of the 3-way occupancy switch to ground?Wiring a single pole dimmer: How to identify ground wireSafe way to remove paint from ground wire?How can I add a ground wire?Can ground wire be downsized mid run?What is the functional difference between using a ground wire, and grounding to a fixture?Can you run earth ground thru conduit into home?Can I run a new ground wire from junction box in attic down the wall to replace 2 prong outletStove top ground wire connected to neutral wire

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Can you run a ground wire from stove directly to ground pole in the ground [duplicate]


Can I use a ground rod as an equipment ground for a detached garage?Could a disconnected ground wire in the breaker box have caused any problems?Why would the documentation say to wire a pole of the 3-way occupancy switch to ground?Wiring a single pole dimmer: How to identify ground wireSafe way to remove paint from ground wire?How can I add a ground wire?Can ground wire be downsized mid run?What is the functional difference between using a ground wire, and grounding to a fixture?Can you run earth ground thru conduit into home?Can I run a new ground wire from junction box in attic down the wall to replace 2 prong outletStove top ground wire connected to neutral wire













6
















This question already has an answer here:



  • Can I use a ground rod as an equipment ground for a detached garage?

    2 answers



Directly to ground pole outside drove into ground










share|improve this question















marked as duplicate by isherwood, Daniel Griscom, Machavity, Retired Master Electrician, Chris Cudmore Mar 13 at 20:00


This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please ask a new question.













  • 3





    No. Equipment grounds must return to the panel.

    – isherwood
    Mar 7 at 14:31






  • 2





    A ground rod in general does not have low enough resistance to allow enough current to flow to trip a breaker. The purpose of an equipment ground is to make a low resistance path to trip the breaker should the metal exterior of an appliance become hot due to an internal fault.

    – Jim Stewart
    Mar 7 at 14:56











  • @JimStewart Not a problem if he protect the stove with an RCD

    – DDS
    Mar 7 at 17:01











  • A ground rod that is part of the grounding electrode system is allowed to be used see 250.68 in the NEC

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:03






  • 1





    Which code does apply in your country? (where are you on Earth?)

    – DDS
    Mar 7 at 17:06















6
















This question already has an answer here:



  • Can I use a ground rod as an equipment ground for a detached garage?

    2 answers



Directly to ground pole outside drove into ground










share|improve this question















marked as duplicate by isherwood, Daniel Griscom, Machavity, Retired Master Electrician, Chris Cudmore Mar 13 at 20:00


This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please ask a new question.













  • 3





    No. Equipment grounds must return to the panel.

    – isherwood
    Mar 7 at 14:31






  • 2





    A ground rod in general does not have low enough resistance to allow enough current to flow to trip a breaker. The purpose of an equipment ground is to make a low resistance path to trip the breaker should the metal exterior of an appliance become hot due to an internal fault.

    – Jim Stewart
    Mar 7 at 14:56











  • @JimStewart Not a problem if he protect the stove with an RCD

    – DDS
    Mar 7 at 17:01











  • A ground rod that is part of the grounding electrode system is allowed to be used see 250.68 in the NEC

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:03






  • 1





    Which code does apply in your country? (where are you on Earth?)

    – DDS
    Mar 7 at 17:06













6












6








6


1







This question already has an answer here:



  • Can I use a ground rod as an equipment ground for a detached garage?

    2 answers



Directly to ground pole outside drove into ground










share|improve this question

















This question already has an answer here:



  • Can I use a ground rod as an equipment ground for a detached garage?

    2 answers



Directly to ground pole outside drove into ground





This question already has an answer here:



  • Can I use a ground rod as an equipment ground for a detached garage?

    2 answers







wiring grounding






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited Mar 7 at 23:52









ThreePhaseEel

32.4k115097




32.4k115097










asked Mar 7 at 14:19









Aaron Clay QuinnAaron Clay Quinn

312




312




marked as duplicate by isherwood, Daniel Griscom, Machavity, Retired Master Electrician, Chris Cudmore Mar 13 at 20:00


This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please ask a new question.









marked as duplicate by isherwood, Daniel Griscom, Machavity, Retired Master Electrician, Chris Cudmore Mar 13 at 20:00


This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please ask a new question.









  • 3





    No. Equipment grounds must return to the panel.

    – isherwood
    Mar 7 at 14:31






  • 2





    A ground rod in general does not have low enough resistance to allow enough current to flow to trip a breaker. The purpose of an equipment ground is to make a low resistance path to trip the breaker should the metal exterior of an appliance become hot due to an internal fault.

    – Jim Stewart
    Mar 7 at 14:56











  • @JimStewart Not a problem if he protect the stove with an RCD

    – DDS
    Mar 7 at 17:01











  • A ground rod that is part of the grounding electrode system is allowed to be used see 250.68 in the NEC

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:03






  • 1





    Which code does apply in your country? (where are you on Earth?)

    – DDS
    Mar 7 at 17:06












  • 3





    No. Equipment grounds must return to the panel.

    – isherwood
    Mar 7 at 14:31






  • 2





    A ground rod in general does not have low enough resistance to allow enough current to flow to trip a breaker. The purpose of an equipment ground is to make a low resistance path to trip the breaker should the metal exterior of an appliance become hot due to an internal fault.

    – Jim Stewart
    Mar 7 at 14:56











  • @JimStewart Not a problem if he protect the stove with an RCD

    – DDS
    Mar 7 at 17:01











  • A ground rod that is part of the grounding electrode system is allowed to be used see 250.68 in the NEC

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:03






  • 1





    Which code does apply in your country? (where are you on Earth?)

    – DDS
    Mar 7 at 17:06







3




3





No. Equipment grounds must return to the panel.

– isherwood
Mar 7 at 14:31





No. Equipment grounds must return to the panel.

– isherwood
Mar 7 at 14:31




2




2





A ground rod in general does not have low enough resistance to allow enough current to flow to trip a breaker. The purpose of an equipment ground is to make a low resistance path to trip the breaker should the metal exterior of an appliance become hot due to an internal fault.

– Jim Stewart
Mar 7 at 14:56





A ground rod in general does not have low enough resistance to allow enough current to flow to trip a breaker. The purpose of an equipment ground is to make a low resistance path to trip the breaker should the metal exterior of an appliance become hot due to an internal fault.

– Jim Stewart
Mar 7 at 14:56













@JimStewart Not a problem if he protect the stove with an RCD

– DDS
Mar 7 at 17:01





@JimStewart Not a problem if he protect the stove with an RCD

– DDS
Mar 7 at 17:01













A ground rod that is part of the grounding electrode system is allowed to be used see 250.68 in the NEC

– Ed Beal
Mar 7 at 17:03





A ground rod that is part of the grounding electrode system is allowed to be used see 250.68 in the NEC

– Ed Beal
Mar 7 at 17:03




1




1





Which code does apply in your country? (where are you on Earth?)

– DDS
Mar 7 at 17:06





Which code does apply in your country? (where are you on Earth?)

– DDS
Mar 7 at 17:06










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















12














Depends what you're trying to protect.



If your goal is to protect the oven from ESD (static electricity) damage or lightning-strike damage, or help it receive radio signals, then going out to a ground spike can help you with that.



It won't do a thing for human safety, though. To protect humans from electric shocks, you can go one of two ways.



GFCI protection



You replace the oven's breaker with a 2-pole GFCI breaker. If there's any place to mark this, you mark the oven's outlet with the words



 GFCI Protected
No Equipment Ground


And then you wire the oven correctly for a 4-wire connection (i.e. remove the neutral-ground strap on the oven) and don't connect ground. If it's a receptacle you fit a 4-prong (NEMA 14) receptacle and do not connect ground and apply the above sticker.



Retrofit a ground



You need a #10 ground wire going back to any of these points:



  • The ground bar of the service panel this oven is powered out of

  • A junction box of any other circuit with a #10 or larger ground path going back to the panel

  • non-flexible metal conduit which is continuous all the way back to the panel

  • the Grounding Electrode System, i.e. the bare ground straps between the service panel and the house's grounding electrode(s) - ground rods, metal water main, or Ufer ground.

This wire can be retrofitted as a solitary wire. This wire does not need to follow the same route as the other wires.



If you really, really want to, you can replace the whole 3-wire cable with a 4-wire cable, but that is just a harder way to do the above.






share|improve this answer




















  • 1





    Harper has it correct, you can add a ground wire to the grounding electrode system.

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 16:57






  • 1





    Yeah I want to listen to rock and roll on the range.

    – Aaron Clay Quinn
    Mar 7 at 21:08


















2














The ground system serves two purposes.



Static Electricity, Lightning and other "Natural" Causes



These types of electricity need to get back to the "source", which is the physical ground (the earth). A ground rod or connecting to a metal pipe that extends into the ground accomplishes this.



Return of current if there is a fault in wiring or equipment



This could include wire damage resulting in a hot wire touching the metal frame of an appliance and many other types of faults. The grounding system provides a low resistance path to get back to the neutral at the main panel to complete the circuit. This is much better than the current going through a person touching the appliance and completing the circuit through their body (NOT a good thing at all). Assuming there is an actual short circuit, the ground path will conduct all the available current so that the circuit breaker will trip. If the only path is the relatively high resistance "physical earth ground", the current may stay well above dangerous levels (it doesn't take much to kill) while staying well below "trip the breaker" levels. FYI, GFCI comes along to provide additional protection in key areas, particularly wet areas like kitchens & bathrooms, because even the smallest ground fault can be dangerous when water is involved because wet skin conducts much better than dry skin.



You need to have both of these protections in place, and normally they are all handled through one set of wires that connects both to the ground (through ground rods or water pipes) and to the neutral at the main panel. Two functions, one combined system, one wire to each appliance or receptacle.



However, I suspect the reason for the question is that you are trying to convert a stove from 3 wire to 4 wire and just don't have a ground wire available and running a new ground wire to the panel is much more work than simply running a wire out to a pole stuck in the ground. The good news is that you can retrofit grounds - i.e., piggyback on another electrical ground elsewhere in the kitchen. There are some constraints regarding minimum wire size, though if you have metal conduit then you may be able to use that as your ground.






share|improve this answer

























  • Can you elaborate on the first paragraph of your answer?

    – DarthCaniac
    Mar 7 at 16:02


















2














Yes under CEI regulation. It's called TT earthing, but in this case you have to protect the stove with RCD (GFI in american words).



That because 'local' ground loop may have resistence high enugh not to let trip an MCB in case of leakage, but high enough to make an imbalance to trip an RCD.



In any case you shouldn't have other masses next to the stove connected to 'another' ground 'on the reach of the user' because, in case of fault, there could be a voltage between the two grounds leaving a potential hazard.






share|improve this answer
































    0














    I agree with isherwood, ground in a reference point and it varies from point to point. To be effective the ground in your house needs to be referenced at the same point. There is electrical potential all around us at all times but a difference in voltage is what allows current to flow. If you were to take two points in the earth and measure between them you would get a reading. There are more reasons for proper grounding that are better explained by others as I'm licensed but not really an electrician.






    share|improve this answer


















    • 1





      Code has been changed and allows an equipment grounding conductor to be connected on the grounding electrode system. 250.68 of the NEC allows this to be done.

      – Ed Beal
      Mar 7 at 17:02

















    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes








    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    12














    Depends what you're trying to protect.



    If your goal is to protect the oven from ESD (static electricity) damage or lightning-strike damage, or help it receive radio signals, then going out to a ground spike can help you with that.



    It won't do a thing for human safety, though. To protect humans from electric shocks, you can go one of two ways.



    GFCI protection



    You replace the oven's breaker with a 2-pole GFCI breaker. If there's any place to mark this, you mark the oven's outlet with the words



     GFCI Protected
    No Equipment Ground


    And then you wire the oven correctly for a 4-wire connection (i.e. remove the neutral-ground strap on the oven) and don't connect ground. If it's a receptacle you fit a 4-prong (NEMA 14) receptacle and do not connect ground and apply the above sticker.



    Retrofit a ground



    You need a #10 ground wire going back to any of these points:



    • The ground bar of the service panel this oven is powered out of

    • A junction box of any other circuit with a #10 or larger ground path going back to the panel

    • non-flexible metal conduit which is continuous all the way back to the panel

    • the Grounding Electrode System, i.e. the bare ground straps between the service panel and the house's grounding electrode(s) - ground rods, metal water main, or Ufer ground.

    This wire can be retrofitted as a solitary wire. This wire does not need to follow the same route as the other wires.



    If you really, really want to, you can replace the whole 3-wire cable with a 4-wire cable, but that is just a harder way to do the above.






    share|improve this answer




















    • 1





      Harper has it correct, you can add a ground wire to the grounding electrode system.

      – Ed Beal
      Mar 7 at 16:57






    • 1





      Yeah I want to listen to rock and roll on the range.

      – Aaron Clay Quinn
      Mar 7 at 21:08















    12














    Depends what you're trying to protect.



    If your goal is to protect the oven from ESD (static electricity) damage or lightning-strike damage, or help it receive radio signals, then going out to a ground spike can help you with that.



    It won't do a thing for human safety, though. To protect humans from electric shocks, you can go one of two ways.



    GFCI protection



    You replace the oven's breaker with a 2-pole GFCI breaker. If there's any place to mark this, you mark the oven's outlet with the words



     GFCI Protected
    No Equipment Ground


    And then you wire the oven correctly for a 4-wire connection (i.e. remove the neutral-ground strap on the oven) and don't connect ground. If it's a receptacle you fit a 4-prong (NEMA 14) receptacle and do not connect ground and apply the above sticker.



    Retrofit a ground



    You need a #10 ground wire going back to any of these points:



    • The ground bar of the service panel this oven is powered out of

    • A junction box of any other circuit with a #10 or larger ground path going back to the panel

    • non-flexible metal conduit which is continuous all the way back to the panel

    • the Grounding Electrode System, i.e. the bare ground straps between the service panel and the house's grounding electrode(s) - ground rods, metal water main, or Ufer ground.

    This wire can be retrofitted as a solitary wire. This wire does not need to follow the same route as the other wires.



    If you really, really want to, you can replace the whole 3-wire cable with a 4-wire cable, but that is just a harder way to do the above.






    share|improve this answer




















    • 1





      Harper has it correct, you can add a ground wire to the grounding electrode system.

      – Ed Beal
      Mar 7 at 16:57






    • 1





      Yeah I want to listen to rock and roll on the range.

      – Aaron Clay Quinn
      Mar 7 at 21:08













    12












    12








    12







    Depends what you're trying to protect.



    If your goal is to protect the oven from ESD (static electricity) damage or lightning-strike damage, or help it receive radio signals, then going out to a ground spike can help you with that.



    It won't do a thing for human safety, though. To protect humans from electric shocks, you can go one of two ways.



    GFCI protection



    You replace the oven's breaker with a 2-pole GFCI breaker. If there's any place to mark this, you mark the oven's outlet with the words



     GFCI Protected
    No Equipment Ground


    And then you wire the oven correctly for a 4-wire connection (i.e. remove the neutral-ground strap on the oven) and don't connect ground. If it's a receptacle you fit a 4-prong (NEMA 14) receptacle and do not connect ground and apply the above sticker.



    Retrofit a ground



    You need a #10 ground wire going back to any of these points:



    • The ground bar of the service panel this oven is powered out of

    • A junction box of any other circuit with a #10 or larger ground path going back to the panel

    • non-flexible metal conduit which is continuous all the way back to the panel

    • the Grounding Electrode System, i.e. the bare ground straps between the service panel and the house's grounding electrode(s) - ground rods, metal water main, or Ufer ground.

    This wire can be retrofitted as a solitary wire. This wire does not need to follow the same route as the other wires.



    If you really, really want to, you can replace the whole 3-wire cable with a 4-wire cable, but that is just a harder way to do the above.






    share|improve this answer















    Depends what you're trying to protect.



    If your goal is to protect the oven from ESD (static electricity) damage or lightning-strike damage, or help it receive radio signals, then going out to a ground spike can help you with that.



    It won't do a thing for human safety, though. To protect humans from electric shocks, you can go one of two ways.



    GFCI protection



    You replace the oven's breaker with a 2-pole GFCI breaker. If there's any place to mark this, you mark the oven's outlet with the words



     GFCI Protected
    No Equipment Ground


    And then you wire the oven correctly for a 4-wire connection (i.e. remove the neutral-ground strap on the oven) and don't connect ground. If it's a receptacle you fit a 4-prong (NEMA 14) receptacle and do not connect ground and apply the above sticker.



    Retrofit a ground



    You need a #10 ground wire going back to any of these points:



    • The ground bar of the service panel this oven is powered out of

    • A junction box of any other circuit with a #10 or larger ground path going back to the panel

    • non-flexible metal conduit which is continuous all the way back to the panel

    • the Grounding Electrode System, i.e. the bare ground straps between the service panel and the house's grounding electrode(s) - ground rods, metal water main, or Ufer ground.

    This wire can be retrofitted as a solitary wire. This wire does not need to follow the same route as the other wires.



    If you really, really want to, you can replace the whole 3-wire cable with a 4-wire cable, but that is just a harder way to do the above.







    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited Mar 7 at 16:16

























    answered Mar 7 at 16:01









    HarperHarper

    73.9k448149




    73.9k448149







    • 1





      Harper has it correct, you can add a ground wire to the grounding electrode system.

      – Ed Beal
      Mar 7 at 16:57






    • 1





      Yeah I want to listen to rock and roll on the range.

      – Aaron Clay Quinn
      Mar 7 at 21:08












    • 1





      Harper has it correct, you can add a ground wire to the grounding electrode system.

      – Ed Beal
      Mar 7 at 16:57






    • 1





      Yeah I want to listen to rock and roll on the range.

      – Aaron Clay Quinn
      Mar 7 at 21:08







    1




    1





    Harper has it correct, you can add a ground wire to the grounding electrode system.

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 16:57





    Harper has it correct, you can add a ground wire to the grounding electrode system.

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 16:57




    1




    1





    Yeah I want to listen to rock and roll on the range.

    – Aaron Clay Quinn
    Mar 7 at 21:08





    Yeah I want to listen to rock and roll on the range.

    – Aaron Clay Quinn
    Mar 7 at 21:08













    2














    The ground system serves two purposes.



    Static Electricity, Lightning and other "Natural" Causes



    These types of electricity need to get back to the "source", which is the physical ground (the earth). A ground rod or connecting to a metal pipe that extends into the ground accomplishes this.



    Return of current if there is a fault in wiring or equipment



    This could include wire damage resulting in a hot wire touching the metal frame of an appliance and many other types of faults. The grounding system provides a low resistance path to get back to the neutral at the main panel to complete the circuit. This is much better than the current going through a person touching the appliance and completing the circuit through their body (NOT a good thing at all). Assuming there is an actual short circuit, the ground path will conduct all the available current so that the circuit breaker will trip. If the only path is the relatively high resistance "physical earth ground", the current may stay well above dangerous levels (it doesn't take much to kill) while staying well below "trip the breaker" levels. FYI, GFCI comes along to provide additional protection in key areas, particularly wet areas like kitchens & bathrooms, because even the smallest ground fault can be dangerous when water is involved because wet skin conducts much better than dry skin.



    You need to have both of these protections in place, and normally they are all handled through one set of wires that connects both to the ground (through ground rods or water pipes) and to the neutral at the main panel. Two functions, one combined system, one wire to each appliance or receptacle.



    However, I suspect the reason for the question is that you are trying to convert a stove from 3 wire to 4 wire and just don't have a ground wire available and running a new ground wire to the panel is much more work than simply running a wire out to a pole stuck in the ground. The good news is that you can retrofit grounds - i.e., piggyback on another electrical ground elsewhere in the kitchen. There are some constraints regarding minimum wire size, though if you have metal conduit then you may be able to use that as your ground.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Can you elaborate on the first paragraph of your answer?

      – DarthCaniac
      Mar 7 at 16:02















    2














    The ground system serves two purposes.



    Static Electricity, Lightning and other "Natural" Causes



    These types of electricity need to get back to the "source", which is the physical ground (the earth). A ground rod or connecting to a metal pipe that extends into the ground accomplishes this.



    Return of current if there is a fault in wiring or equipment



    This could include wire damage resulting in a hot wire touching the metal frame of an appliance and many other types of faults. The grounding system provides a low resistance path to get back to the neutral at the main panel to complete the circuit. This is much better than the current going through a person touching the appliance and completing the circuit through their body (NOT a good thing at all). Assuming there is an actual short circuit, the ground path will conduct all the available current so that the circuit breaker will trip. If the only path is the relatively high resistance "physical earth ground", the current may stay well above dangerous levels (it doesn't take much to kill) while staying well below "trip the breaker" levels. FYI, GFCI comes along to provide additional protection in key areas, particularly wet areas like kitchens & bathrooms, because even the smallest ground fault can be dangerous when water is involved because wet skin conducts much better than dry skin.



    You need to have both of these protections in place, and normally they are all handled through one set of wires that connects both to the ground (through ground rods or water pipes) and to the neutral at the main panel. Two functions, one combined system, one wire to each appliance or receptacle.



    However, I suspect the reason for the question is that you are trying to convert a stove from 3 wire to 4 wire and just don't have a ground wire available and running a new ground wire to the panel is much more work than simply running a wire out to a pole stuck in the ground. The good news is that you can retrofit grounds - i.e., piggyback on another electrical ground elsewhere in the kitchen. There are some constraints regarding minimum wire size, though if you have metal conduit then you may be able to use that as your ground.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Can you elaborate on the first paragraph of your answer?

      – DarthCaniac
      Mar 7 at 16:02













    2












    2








    2







    The ground system serves two purposes.



    Static Electricity, Lightning and other "Natural" Causes



    These types of electricity need to get back to the "source", which is the physical ground (the earth). A ground rod or connecting to a metal pipe that extends into the ground accomplishes this.



    Return of current if there is a fault in wiring or equipment



    This could include wire damage resulting in a hot wire touching the metal frame of an appliance and many other types of faults. The grounding system provides a low resistance path to get back to the neutral at the main panel to complete the circuit. This is much better than the current going through a person touching the appliance and completing the circuit through their body (NOT a good thing at all). Assuming there is an actual short circuit, the ground path will conduct all the available current so that the circuit breaker will trip. If the only path is the relatively high resistance "physical earth ground", the current may stay well above dangerous levels (it doesn't take much to kill) while staying well below "trip the breaker" levels. FYI, GFCI comes along to provide additional protection in key areas, particularly wet areas like kitchens & bathrooms, because even the smallest ground fault can be dangerous when water is involved because wet skin conducts much better than dry skin.



    You need to have both of these protections in place, and normally they are all handled through one set of wires that connects both to the ground (through ground rods or water pipes) and to the neutral at the main panel. Two functions, one combined system, one wire to each appliance or receptacle.



    However, I suspect the reason for the question is that you are trying to convert a stove from 3 wire to 4 wire and just don't have a ground wire available and running a new ground wire to the panel is much more work than simply running a wire out to a pole stuck in the ground. The good news is that you can retrofit grounds - i.e., piggyback on another electrical ground elsewhere in the kitchen. There are some constraints regarding minimum wire size, though if you have metal conduit then you may be able to use that as your ground.






    share|improve this answer















    The ground system serves two purposes.



    Static Electricity, Lightning and other "Natural" Causes



    These types of electricity need to get back to the "source", which is the physical ground (the earth). A ground rod or connecting to a metal pipe that extends into the ground accomplishes this.



    Return of current if there is a fault in wiring or equipment



    This could include wire damage resulting in a hot wire touching the metal frame of an appliance and many other types of faults. The grounding system provides a low resistance path to get back to the neutral at the main panel to complete the circuit. This is much better than the current going through a person touching the appliance and completing the circuit through their body (NOT a good thing at all). Assuming there is an actual short circuit, the ground path will conduct all the available current so that the circuit breaker will trip. If the only path is the relatively high resistance "physical earth ground", the current may stay well above dangerous levels (it doesn't take much to kill) while staying well below "trip the breaker" levels. FYI, GFCI comes along to provide additional protection in key areas, particularly wet areas like kitchens & bathrooms, because even the smallest ground fault can be dangerous when water is involved because wet skin conducts much better than dry skin.



    You need to have both of these protections in place, and normally they are all handled through one set of wires that connects both to the ground (through ground rods or water pipes) and to the neutral at the main panel. Two functions, one combined system, one wire to each appliance or receptacle.



    However, I suspect the reason for the question is that you are trying to convert a stove from 3 wire to 4 wire and just don't have a ground wire available and running a new ground wire to the panel is much more work than simply running a wire out to a pole stuck in the ground. The good news is that you can retrofit grounds - i.e., piggyback on another electrical ground elsewhere in the kitchen. There are some constraints regarding minimum wire size, though if you have metal conduit then you may be able to use that as your ground.







    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited Mar 7 at 16:17

























    answered Mar 7 at 15:00









    manassehkatzmanassehkatz

    9,6751336




    9,6751336












    • Can you elaborate on the first paragraph of your answer?

      – DarthCaniac
      Mar 7 at 16:02

















    • Can you elaborate on the first paragraph of your answer?

      – DarthCaniac
      Mar 7 at 16:02
















    Can you elaborate on the first paragraph of your answer?

    – DarthCaniac
    Mar 7 at 16:02





    Can you elaborate on the first paragraph of your answer?

    – DarthCaniac
    Mar 7 at 16:02











    2














    Yes under CEI regulation. It's called TT earthing, but in this case you have to protect the stove with RCD (GFI in american words).



    That because 'local' ground loop may have resistence high enugh not to let trip an MCB in case of leakage, but high enough to make an imbalance to trip an RCD.



    In any case you shouldn't have other masses next to the stove connected to 'another' ground 'on the reach of the user' because, in case of fault, there could be a voltage between the two grounds leaving a potential hazard.






    share|improve this answer





























      2














      Yes under CEI regulation. It's called TT earthing, but in this case you have to protect the stove with RCD (GFI in american words).



      That because 'local' ground loop may have resistence high enugh not to let trip an MCB in case of leakage, but high enough to make an imbalance to trip an RCD.



      In any case you shouldn't have other masses next to the stove connected to 'another' ground 'on the reach of the user' because, in case of fault, there could be a voltage between the two grounds leaving a potential hazard.






      share|improve this answer



























        2












        2








        2







        Yes under CEI regulation. It's called TT earthing, but in this case you have to protect the stove with RCD (GFI in american words).



        That because 'local' ground loop may have resistence high enugh not to let trip an MCB in case of leakage, but high enough to make an imbalance to trip an RCD.



        In any case you shouldn't have other masses next to the stove connected to 'another' ground 'on the reach of the user' because, in case of fault, there could be a voltage between the two grounds leaving a potential hazard.






        share|improve this answer















        Yes under CEI regulation. It's called TT earthing, but in this case you have to protect the stove with RCD (GFI in american words).



        That because 'local' ground loop may have resistence high enugh not to let trip an MCB in case of leakage, but high enough to make an imbalance to trip an RCD.



        In any case you shouldn't have other masses next to the stove connected to 'another' ground 'on the reach of the user' because, in case of fault, there could be a voltage between the two grounds leaving a potential hazard.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited Mar 7 at 17:03

























        answered Mar 7 at 16:57









        DDSDDS

        1,423412




        1,423412





















            0














            I agree with isherwood, ground in a reference point and it varies from point to point. To be effective the ground in your house needs to be referenced at the same point. There is electrical potential all around us at all times but a difference in voltage is what allows current to flow. If you were to take two points in the earth and measure between them you would get a reading. There are more reasons for proper grounding that are better explained by others as I'm licensed but not really an electrician.






            share|improve this answer


















            • 1





              Code has been changed and allows an equipment grounding conductor to be connected on the grounding electrode system. 250.68 of the NEC allows this to be done.

              – Ed Beal
              Mar 7 at 17:02















            0














            I agree with isherwood, ground in a reference point and it varies from point to point. To be effective the ground in your house needs to be referenced at the same point. There is electrical potential all around us at all times but a difference in voltage is what allows current to flow. If you were to take two points in the earth and measure between them you would get a reading. There are more reasons for proper grounding that are better explained by others as I'm licensed but not really an electrician.






            share|improve this answer


















            • 1





              Code has been changed and allows an equipment grounding conductor to be connected on the grounding electrode system. 250.68 of the NEC allows this to be done.

              – Ed Beal
              Mar 7 at 17:02













            0












            0








            0







            I agree with isherwood, ground in a reference point and it varies from point to point. To be effective the ground in your house needs to be referenced at the same point. There is electrical potential all around us at all times but a difference in voltage is what allows current to flow. If you were to take two points in the earth and measure between them you would get a reading. There are more reasons for proper grounding that are better explained by others as I'm licensed but not really an electrician.






            share|improve this answer













            I agree with isherwood, ground in a reference point and it varies from point to point. To be effective the ground in your house needs to be referenced at the same point. There is electrical potential all around us at all times but a difference in voltage is what allows current to flow. If you were to take two points in the earth and measure between them you would get a reading. There are more reasons for proper grounding that are better explained by others as I'm licensed but not really an electrician.







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered Mar 7 at 14:58









            Joe FalaJoe Fala

            3,829224




            3,829224







            • 1





              Code has been changed and allows an equipment grounding conductor to be connected on the grounding electrode system. 250.68 of the NEC allows this to be done.

              – Ed Beal
              Mar 7 at 17:02












            • 1





              Code has been changed and allows an equipment grounding conductor to be connected on the grounding electrode system. 250.68 of the NEC allows this to be done.

              – Ed Beal
              Mar 7 at 17:02







            1




            1





            Code has been changed and allows an equipment grounding conductor to be connected on the grounding electrode system. 250.68 of the NEC allows this to be done.

            – Ed Beal
            Mar 7 at 17:02





            Code has been changed and allows an equipment grounding conductor to be connected on the grounding electrode system. 250.68 of the NEC allows this to be done.

            – Ed Beal
            Mar 7 at 17:02



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