Hem Contents Methods Types of hems and hem stitches Hem repair See also References Navigation menue

Sewing


sewingovercast stitchblind stitchsewing machinesergerpinking shearspipedbindingHong Kong finishhaute couturehem-stitchseam allowancebiaspick stitchcatch stitchslip stitchblind stitchfootappliquepresser footoverlocksergerblind stitchbuttonhole stitchpick stitchrunning stitch




For other uses, see Hem (disambiguation).



Hem detail with inscriptions, Saint-John in Crucifixion, Ferrara, by Vicino da Ferrara (1469–70).


A hem in sewing is a garment finishing method, where the edge of a piece of cloth is folded narrowly and sewn to prevent unravelling of the fabric.




Contents





  • 1 Methods


  • 2 Types of hems and hem stitches


  • 3 Hem repair


  • 4 See also


  • 5 References




Methods




A presser foot on a home sewing machine includes measurement markings on the plate beneath the foot for easier hemming. Shown are measurements in fractions of an inch (above) and in millimetres (below).


There are many different styles of hems of varying complexities. The most common hem folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sew it down. The style of hemming thus completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, so that it cannot unravel. Other hem styles use fewer folds. One of the simplest hems encloses the edge of cloth with a stitch without any folds at all, using a method called an overcast stitch, although an overcast stitch may be used to finish a folded "plain hem" as well.[1]


There are even hems that do not call for sewing, instead using iron-on materials, netting, plastic clips, or other fasteners.[2] These threadless hems are not common, and are often used only on a temporary basis.


The hem may be sewn down with a line of invisible stitches or blind stitch, or sewn down by a sewing machine. The term hem is also extended to other cloth treatments that prevent unraveling. Hems can be serged (see serger), hand rolled and then sewn down with tiny stitches (still seen as a high-class finish to handkerchiefs), pinked with pinking shears, piped, covered with binding (this is known as a Hong Kong finish), or made with many other inventive treatments.


Most haute couture hems are sewn by hand. Decorative embroidery embellishment is sometimes referred to as a hem-stitch design.



Types of hems and hem stitches


Hems of different depths (which includes the seam allowance) may have a particular style to achieve, which requires more or less fabric depending upon the style. A handkerchief-style edge requires a hem allowance of 0.6 cm or a quarter inch. A typical skirt or pant hem may be 5-7.6 cm.[3] The hem's depth affects the way the fabric of the finished fabric will drape. Heavier fabric requires a relatively shorter hem.[4] An interface fabric sewn to the fabric in the hem has a useful function in some hem styles. A bias strip is sometimes used as a hem interface. This adds fullness to the finished garment and reduce wrinkling.[5]


The hem stitches that are commonly used for hand-sewn hems include: pick stitch; catch stitch (also called a herringbone stitch); slip stitch; and blind stitch.[6]


Sewing machines can make a stitch that appears nearly invisible by using a blind-stitch setting and a blind stitch foot. Blind-stitches are commonly used to finish hems of applique designs on fabric.[7] Modern sewing machines designed for home use can make many decorative or functional stitches, so the number of possible hem treatments is large. These home-use machines can also sew a reasonable facsimile of a hem-stitch, though the stitches will usually be larger and more visible.


Clothing factories and professional tailors use a "blind hemmer", or hemming machine, which sews an invisible stitch quickly and accurately. A blind hemmer sews a chain stitch, using a bent needle, which can be set precisely enough to actually sew through one and a half thicknesses of the hemmed fabric. A rolled hem presser foot on a sewing machine[8] enables quick and easy hemming even by home sewers.


Heavy material with deep hems may be hemmed with what is called a dressmaker's hem​—​an extra line of loose running stitch is added in the middle of the hem, so that all the weight of the cloth does not hang from one line of stitching.





  • A five-thread overlock hem made with a serger machine. This photo shows the inside of the garment. On the outside of the garment, this would appear as a blind stitch.







  • A buttonhole stitch hems the opening around a button hole.







  • A pick stitch hem made with thread that matches the fabric, to appear invisible on the outside of the garment.







  • A plain hem, folded once and sewn with a running stitch.





Hem repair




Hem repair tape


Hem repair tape is available as an alternative solution to sewing a broken hem. To affect a fix, the hem repair tape is laid around the inside of the hem. It is then ironed with a hot iron. The heat causes the tape to bond the two surfaces together.



See also


  • Hemline


References




  1. ^ Shaeffer, Clare B. (2011). Couture Sewing Techniques. Taunton Press. pp. 69–70. ISBN 9781600853357..mw-parser-output cite.citationfont-style:inherit.mw-parser-output .citation qquotes:"""""""'""'".mw-parser-output .citation .cs1-lock-free abackground:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Lock-green.svg/9px-Lock-green.svg.png")no-repeat;background-position:right .1em center.mw-parser-output .citation .cs1-lock-limited a,.mw-parser-output .citation .cs1-lock-registration abackground:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d6/Lock-gray-alt-2.svg/9px-Lock-gray-alt-2.svg.png")no-repeat;background-position:right .1em center.mw-parser-output .citation .cs1-lock-subscription abackground:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/aa/Lock-red-alt-2.svg/9px-Lock-red-alt-2.svg.png")no-repeat;background-position:right .1em center.mw-parser-output .cs1-subscription,.mw-parser-output .cs1-registrationcolor:#555.mw-parser-output .cs1-subscription span,.mw-parser-output .cs1-registration spanborder-bottom:1px dotted;cursor:help.mw-parser-output .cs1-ws-icon abackground:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4c/Wikisource-logo.svg/12px-Wikisource-logo.svg.png")no-repeat;background-position:right .1em center.mw-parser-output code.cs1-codecolor:inherit;background:inherit;border:inherit;padding:inherit.mw-parser-output .cs1-hidden-errordisplay:none;font-size:100%.mw-parser-output .cs1-visible-errorfont-size:100%.mw-parser-output .cs1-maintdisplay:none;color:#33aa33;margin-left:0.3em.mw-parser-output .cs1-subscription,.mw-parser-output .cs1-registration,.mw-parser-output .cs1-formatfont-size:95%.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-left,.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-wl-leftpadding-left:0.2em.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-right,.mw-parser-output .cs1-kern-wl-rightpadding-right:0.2em


  2. ^ Calderin, Jay (2009). Form, Fit and Fashion. Rockport Publishing, Inc. p. 184. ISBN 9781592535415.


  3. ^ Calderin, Jay (2009). Form, Fit and Fashion. Rockport Publishing, Inc. p. 184. ISBN 9781592535415.


  4. ^ Colgrove, Debbie (2011). "12 Hemming techniques". Teach Yourself VISUALLY Sewing. John Wiley & Sons. pp. N.p. ISBN 9781118153376.


  5. ^ Shaeffer, Clare B. (2011). Couture Sewing Techniques. Taunton Press. pp. 69–72. ISBN 9781600853357.


  6. ^ Calderin, Jay (2009). Form, Fit and Fashion. Rockport Publishing, Inc. p. 184. ISBN 9781592535415.


  7. ^ Shaeffer, Clare B. (2011). Couture Sewing Techniques. Taunton Press. pp. 69–70. ISBN 9781600853357.


  8. ^ Calderin, Jay (2009). Form, Fit and Fashion. Rockport Publishing, Inc. p. 184. ISBN 9781592535415.









-

Popular posts from this blog

Thal And Out Agency railway station See also References External links Navigation menuOfficial Web Site of Pakistan RailwaysArchivedOfficial Web Site of Pakistan Railwayseeexpanding ite

Image
Golra Sharif KutbalFatehjangGaganChauntraKahal Basal Junction DomelNammalChura Sharif HaltLangar Jand Junction Khushalgarh Faqir Hussain ShaheedTilkanSeni GambatBabari BandaCadet College Kohat Kohat Cantonment Kohat Tehsil Nasrat Khel Chikarkot Ustarzai Raisan Ibrahimzai Hangu Doaba Darsmand Thal Aab-e-gumAhmedwalAlam RegAlozaiAzadBadinzaiBakhtiarabad DomkiBeleli Bostan Junction Chaman ChurmianDalbandinDamboliDera Allah YarDera Murad JamaliDingraDozanGalangurGatGulistanHirokKan MehtarzaiKhanaiKhan Muhammad ChahKila SaifullahKishingiKoh-e-TaftanKolpurKuchlakMachMangoliMirjavehMushkafMuslimbaghNok KundiNushkiNuttallPadag RoadPerakPehro KunriPanirPeshiQilla Abdullah Quetta Sar-i-AbSheikh MandahSheikh Wasil Sibi Junction Spezand Junction Shela BaghTozghiWali KhanYakmachYaru Zhob IslamabadGolra Sharif Junction Attock City Junction Attock KhurdBahawalpurChiniotDandot RSFaisalabadGujar KhanGujratJalloJhang SadarJhelum Khanewal Junction KhanpurKhewra Lahore Junction Lahore CantonmentLiaquat Pu...
Read more

Understanding generators in Python2019 Community Moderator ElectionGenerator function not working pythonFor loop not executing two timesGenerators - Printing generated valuesWhy can a python generator only be used once?What exactly do generators do?What does the “yield” keyword do?What does “list comprehension” mean? How does it work and how can I use it?sklearn Kfold acces single fold instead of for loopIs a generator the callable? Which is the generator?Apply Border To Range Of Cells Using OpenpyxlCalling an external command in PythonWhat are metaclasses in Python?What is the difference between @staticmethod and @classmethod?Finding the index of an item given a list containing it in PythonDifference between append vs. extend list methods in PythonHow can I safely create a nested directory in Python?Does Python have a ternary conditional operator?Understanding slice notationUnderstanding Python super() with __init__() methodsDoes Python have a string 'contains' substring method?

Image
What is it called when someone votes for an option that's not their first choice? Have the tides ever turned twice on any open problem? Is xar preinstalled on macOS? "Marked down as someone wanting to sell shares." What does that mean? Does fire aspect on a sword, destroy mob drops? Is VPN a layer 3 concept? Exposing a company lying about themselves in a tightly knit industry: Is my career at risk on the long run? Symbolism of 18 Journeyers How can a new country break out from a developed country without war? What is the difference between something being completely legal and being completely decriminalized? Does convergence of polynomials imply that of its coefficients? Friend wants my recommendation but I don't want to give it to him Why I don't get the wanted width of tcbox? Single word to change groups Would this string work as string? Unfrosted light bulb Air travel with refrigerated insulin What is the tangent at a sharp poi...
Read more

How can I change the color of pagination dots of UIPageControl?How to change UIPageControl dotsIs there a way to change page indicator dots colorCustomize dot with image of UIPageControl at index 0 of UIPageControlNo visible @interface for 'NSObject<PageControlDelegate>' declares the selector 'pageControlPageDidChange:'How to change the color of pagination dots in UIPageControl with a different color per pagepagecontrol indicator custom image instead of DefaultChanging the colour of UIPageControl dots in MonoTouchpagecontrol selectable page visibility color?Alternative way to load ViewControllers on a UIPageControlHow to set only layer.border-color for UIpage control dots in swiftHow can I develop for iPhone using a Windows development machine?How to change the name of an iOS app?UITableView - change section header coloruipagecontrol indicator(dot)issueCustom UIPageControl dots color not changingchange the interspace between UIPageControl dotsHow to change Status Bar text color in iOSHow can I change image tintColor in iOS and WatchKitUIPageControl dots with larger space in between each dotsHow to change the color of pagination dots in UIPageControl with a different color per page

Image
How do I implement a file system driver driver in Linux? Fly on a jet pack vs fly with a jet pack? Is possible to search in vim history? Translation of Scottish 16th century church stained glass Ridge Regression with Gradient Descent Converges to OLS estimates What linear sensor for a keyboard? Did US corporations pay demonstrators in the German demonstrations against article 13? Is it improper etiquette to ask your opponent what his/her rating is before the game? Why does Async/Await work properly when the loop is inside the async function and not the other way around? Why did the EU agree to delay the Brexit deadline? A Permanent Norse Presence in America Did arcade monitors have same pixel aspect ratio as TV sets? Can the Supreme Court overturn an impeachment? Drawing ramified coverings with tikz Greco-Roman egalitarianism Can someone explain how this makes sense electrically? Is it possible to use .desktop files to open local pdf files on specific pa...
Read more